
I've been riding since dawn, but after two
hundred miles I've stopped to rest at the Hilltop Café, north of San
Antonio. The bright shining sunlight belies the slight, sharp chill in a
breeze that blows steadily over the rolling grasslands and it's good to
be inside for a short time. I'm alone at my table. Some moments pass
and then a waiter, sun-burnt, approaches me, holding a coffeepot,
friendly enough.
Usted quiere café, señor?
Sí, gracias.
Another pair of riders sits across the room, sipping their coffee
slowly, drawing on half-spent cigarettes, and one of them with the pack
rolled up in his shirt sleeve leans over and tips ash into the cuff of
his jeans. Then they notice me and both nod at me gravely and I nod to
them and then the waiter's back wanting to know what I want. I still
have long hours left of sunlight to ride without stopping, so I order up
some fried catfish and rice with beans and some tortillas with hot
sauce and some more coffee and the waiter takes all this down without
saying a word and then leaves.
She is at the table across from me to my left. There's no one in
front of her, just a window facing the sun, but she's sitting still at
the table and it takes my eyes a few minutes to adjust to the sunlight
that's striking her through the window to see that she's been weeping
quietly, or was a short time ago and now all that remains of that are
soft, shallow pools in her eyes and shimmering tracks down her face. Her
hair is the color of the daylight and for a moment the two lose each
other in the air between her and me, everything is soft yellow, until
she turns her head slightly and the light glints off the saltwater on
her face and hurts my eyes, closing them.
I've seen her earlier in the day along my route with another rider
and I've heard some talk about her and that rider, but he's not there
now and it's probably best that she's alone. There's nothing I can do
for her.
Through the window I check on my bike, BMW’s new K1200LT, a heavy
mount at a claimed 834 lbs. wet, a luxurious mount to be sure with plush
seating, cruise control, a six-disc CD player, heated grips, and heated
seats in the Custom version. The bike comes in three versions in all.
The main difference between the Standard ($16,900) and the Icon
($17,900) is that the Icon has heated grips, the six-disc CD
changer/player, and an on-board computer that displays the outside
temperature, average fuel mileage, average speed, and the number of
miles left in your tank before it’s time to graze your mount. The Custom
version ($18,900) has all the Icon has but also with SoftTouch heated
seats, with separate controls for rider and passenger, and some chrome
to show off the pretty lines of the long-distance ride.

The woman shifts in her seat a little and it takes my attention for a
moment, but I go back to the bike in the window and force myself to
think about the riding left for the day. BMW has led me to the wild,
winding roads in this rural county in south Texas, led me here because
the K1200LT can tame these roads like no other heavy tourer has done in
the past. Power comes on low and strong, pushing the heavy, metal
charger forward, toward the horizon, toward a tomorrow that is powered
by the rubber-mounted 1171cc 16-valve DOHC powerplant derived from the
K1200RS.

Low- and mid-range thrust has been boosted effectively with revised
cams, intake, and exhaust systems coupled with a retuned Motronic engine
management and the results suit the riding in this wild land that leads
ever westward. BMW claims 85 lb.-ft. of torque at 4,750 rpm and 100 bhp
at 6,750 rpm, with more than 80 percent of the torque being generated
between 2,800 and 6,800 rpm. There's no way to know for sure, I have to
take them at their word for now, but there will come a time when I will
face those numbers, face them with all my heart, and then I will know
the truth.

But for now they aren't hard to believe. This ride is too compliant,
almost too easy for what looks to be a lumbering mount, large saddlebags
protruding from the top rear and sides, but still graceful, still able
to hold everything I might need for a dozen sunsets in the saddle, maybe
more, while only needing a single key to open everything. Two helmets
fit in the top bag, two helmets for two riders. Now she's become
conscious of her surroundings again, now the sunlight and the color of
her hair have parted ways while she searches through a small bag for
something to wipe away the tracks down her face, to erase evidence of
some parting, some small loss that places like this exact from time to
time. The light is harsher now, revealing small lines around her eyes,
lines which I trace down her face, the curve of her neck, her shoulders.
The chassis on the LT has proven so far to be willing and ready for
any twist, almost any demand. A broad torque range means that for
sweepers there's no downshift necessary, although it’s rare on these
winding roads to be in the fifth, overdrive gear, which is a true
overdrive on this bike. The suspension is nearly identical to the RS but
for an extra 80mm of length on the Paralever to allow more room for the
passenger and to accommodate the long 64.3-inch wheelbase which
increases stability for straight and level flight.

But again, in turns, there is no restraint, simply roll back, gauge
entry speed and lean over, lean over more, don't feel fear, this is all
possible now. The bike is heavy but it is strong and willing and even
when younger, faster sportbike riders are fast coming up, they will see
this massive tourer leaning and they'll hold back because they can see
what you know, that you are fast and that your ride will not be slowed
down. You carry luggage because you stay in the saddle for days and
because the road is your familiar and speed is your breakfast and speed
is your intoxicant.
A steel tube rear subframe mounts off the rear of the main frame and
provides strong support for passengers and luggage and steel-reinforced
side points protect the bike's skin in a tip-over, a smart feature.
There's a line in the girl's jaw that suggests a steel that many might
not guess is there at first.

Because the LT can hold momentum and can hold a line it's possible to
enter turns too hot, or almost too hot, but the brakes on the LT, ABS
II standard on all LT models, are capable enough. The rear 11.2-inch
diameter brake is clenched tightly by a four-piston caliper instead of
the two pistons on the RS, but the twin front brakes, 12-inch floating
rotors with four-piston Brembo calipers, are the same. This bike has a
mustang's heart though it is a packhorse, a workhorse of fine blood, and
slowing, coming closer to a standstill, is not in its nature. These
brakes can be squeezed with some hard authority before you feel the wind
die down a little, but this is only a cautionary note here, not a
defect of design.
The grips are heated. The bike is lavish.
Before the ride, BMW's David Robb addressed all the riders and he
spoke to us of luxury, and luxury's nature and those things that
communicate luxury. "Luxury comes in many different forms, in different
shapes, in different materials," he said. "There is a luxury of
complexity and a luxury of simplicity." Here, with the LT, BMW has
succeeded again, blending a host of technical features with a simple
rider interface.
Graceful lines, lines that recall the rolling hills of Texas -- lines
that recall her -- describe the whole silhouette of a bike that is
almost completely adjustable. The windshield moves up and down by a
switch at the handgrip, customizing airflow over the rider, brake and
clutch levers adjust to fit the rider's hand, stereo, cruise control and
computer controls are all close to the handgrips, easy to reach.

The seats are plush, but firm for long days, and adjustable to two
heights, 30.3 or 31.5 inches. An integrated grab handle lends an easy
grip for hauling the bike on its centerstand. The grips are heated. The
bike is lavish.
A lavish bike for roads that are not, this is my thought as she
stands up, though I pretend I don't notice, I drink my coffee. She walks
out, passes me on the way and as she goes I stop drinking, lower my
cup, inhale, trying to catch her scent but I miss it in the confusion of
coffee and café aromas. She's gone now and soon I will be, too.

I have no complaints, no regrets about this ride. Perhaps, given more
time, I might come to terms against some points on the bike, but it
suits me for today, with only three hundred miles to go and everything
working as it should. Simply, BMW has thought of most things as I can
see, and the bike rides like no luxury tourer should, so I can think
about the next hill, the next hundred miles and the next time I happen
into a café where she is sitting.
Specifications
Manufacturer: BMW
Model: K1200LT
Price: $16,900 USD (Standard),
$17,900 USD (Icon),
$18,900 USD (Custom)
Engine: Liquid-cooled, 4-stroke, in-line 4
Compression ratio: 10.8:1
Bore and Stroke: 70.5 mm x 75 mm
Displacement: 1171cc
Carburetion: Fuel-injection Bosch Motronic MA 2.4
Transmission: Five-speed, dry clutch
Tires/Front: 120/70 ZR 17 tubeless
Tires/Rear: 160/70 ZR 17 tubeless
Wheelbase: 64.3 in (1633 mm)
Seat Height: 30.3 / 31.5 in (770 mm / 800 mm)
Fuel Capacity: 6.18 US gal including 1 gal reserve
Claimed Wet Weight: 834 lbs
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